Friday, 25 February 2022

Customised Treat Bags For Sale

These customised treat bags proved popular when they were last offered to supporters of the GSD Welfare Fund and are now available again.

They are a bum bag style with plenty of space for treats and other useful items while walking your dog(s). We customise them with a photo and name of your dog printed on it. 

The GSD Welfare Fund icon shows your support for the amazing work they do with vulnerable German Shepherds. £5 from every sale is donated to the German Shepherd Dog Welfare Fund.

A perfect gift for dog lovers! 

After you place and pay your order we will contact you to arrange the artwork needed for printing. They are printed on demand, so please allow up to 21 days for delivery. 

Any queries can be directed to gsdwfonline@gmail.com and we'll respond as quickly as we can.

Puppy Care Topics - The Early Days of Puppies

In this latest Puppy Care Topic, Debbie Hill (Chairman for the German Shepherd Dog Welfare Fund) examines some of the key challenges facing young pups when they go to their new homes. This article was originally part of the information provided to the new owners of Lexi's puppies, as well as ongoing support and guidance that is available to the adopters of any of our rescued dogs. 

THE EARLY DAYS OF PUPPIES

The genes of dogs are made up of 2 alleles (genotype), one inherited from the sire and one inherited from the dam. Genes will affect things like size, coat, eye colour etc. The dominant and recessive allele are represented by a series of letters. The phenotype is the physical expression of the genotype which is responsible for the shape, size, health, and general nature of the dog. The phenotype is affected by the environment. Two nervous dogs can produce a pup that is also of a nervous disposition but correct early socialisation may produce a pup who is calm. This was obviously a worry for us because both Lexi and Apollo are very nervous dogs. This said, we believe this was caused by environment and the treatment they received (nurture) rather than genetics (nature). However, we still had to do all we could to give the puppies the best start possible, and prepare them for their future, especially as they were born in rescue kennels.

Most people do not socialise their pups until approximately 12-14 weeks of age, once they feel they are safe to do so, due to vaccinations. This is a worry because it coincides with the onset of the fear period. This means that just as the “fear of the unknown” period is starting, the puppies are taken out into the big wide world to face many novel experiences. Obviously, the puppy will then show signs of stress. Sadly, at this point, many owners tell the puppy it is OK and continue to expose them to these novel experiences. Personally, I feel this is where lots of  the dog’s issues start, especially in a breed like the German Shepherd. It used to be thought that the 8 – 14-week period when the puppies went to their new home was the most important period for socialising a pup. Suzanne Clothier’s “the puppy protocol”, stresses that days 0-63 are crucial for development and the pups should be stimulated according to the development stage they are at during this time. We have followed the puppy protocol with our the puppies so they will be better equipped to deal with life in their new home and more able to cope with novel stimulus. They are given objects to climb on, different texture surfaces/smells/sounds and visual stimulation. A larger whelping box was used rather than the size normally used to give us room to add objects to stimulate the puppies. This also gave them room to move further. Different objects were added regularly to provide novel stimulation.

Clothier tells us that a puppy reared in a larger area with different views will develop better vision. Some breeders’ whelp/raise puppies in sterile kennel environments so they miss out on this important period leaving them ill equipped to cope. During trials, the rats that were given appropriate stimulation from birth had brains that weighed heavier than those that did not have the stimulation.

Although the genetics are the “blueprint” of the foundation, the environment is as important (nature Vs nurture). Our puppies are regularly taken outside (from 3-4 weeks of age) to a play area with obstacles for them to navigate. This means they are seeing further and experiencing new sights and sounds from an early age. They will also be taken on car journeys as part of the rearing process.

Many health issues are inherited from the parents so it is imperative that for a planned litter, both parents have undergone the relevant health tests otherwise the puppy can inherit such diseases. With health issues such as degenerative  myelopathy, both parents must carry the gene. With cases like Lexi, who came into rescue already in whelp, none of the relevant health tests were done. All we could do was give the puppies the best start we could. Feeding Lexi a nutritious diet was imperative for her puppies. If she was malnourished the pup would likely encounter immune issues later in life. Lexi was feed lots of fresh food high in protein and  calcium.

The bond between the dam and pups is important for the puppy’s emotional development. The nursing and licking cause gene expression making the pups more resilient to stress. As Lexi was so young, we were worried that she wouldn’t make a good mum, although she had already had a litter of puppies when she was just 12 months old. We needn’t have worried as she is an amazing mummy.

Genes and the environment meet at a point during this early window of brain development and form the neural circuits that underlay behaviour. During these early periods known as the critical period the nervous system must go through certain experiences to allow them to meet their needs and for the puppy to mature. During this time the puppy is set for high rates of learning, but this diminishes after the critical period. 

Suzanne clothier compares puppies that are reared without sufficient stimuli to children adopted from Romanian orphanages. Although the children are clean and fed, they are often kept in cots with little interaction. Most of these children have difficulties in life even if adopted and given a wonderful childhood. There have been several reports of adopters of Romanian orphans that have had to return children as they got older. It may just be a case of the child cries constantly with no apparent reason but usually the damage causes more troublesome behaviours to be exhibited. Puppies need adequate stimuli to enable the brain to grow. Rearing a puppy in a clinical environment can stop healthy brain development. For a puppy to be able to deal with novel situations in life, neuroplasticity is a must. Puppies that are exposed to traumatic experiences can have issues with development and sensory input. Trauma can cause neurological/physiological changes Not having a positive rearing program will inhibit learning, so we are most cautious that all our puppies’ experiences are 
good ones.

Socialising a puppy is not a to do list. Puppies need to learn at their own pace. If we rush them faster than they are ready to cope with it will have more of a detrimental effect than positive. The first night for the puppy in his new home can be traumatic. He has left his litter mates and then owners expect to put him to bed and leave him for the night. The old-fashioned idea was to put them to bed and then ignore them when they are crying. Going back to them will teach them to cry to get you back. We now know that leaving a puppy to cry causes him to be stressed and stress can kill of neurons. We recommend that these pups have a crate with some soft bedding placed next to their owners’ bed for the first few weeks, so they feel safe. Once the puppy feels secure in the new home, the bed can start being moved gradually towards the area of preference. 

Flooding was another old-fashioned training method that was favoured. We now know the damage that flooding does i.e., stress and fearfulness leaving the pup to feel they cannot cope. Lots of people inadvertently “flood” when socialising a puppy. They think taking it to a park with strange dogs coming up and rolling it over is getting them used to other dogs. For the pup this can have a negative effect, in turn causing the pup to grow and display reactiveness. Instead, puppies should be taken into the vicinity of other dogs/cats/animals and be kept safe with no interaction and made to feel comfortable enough that they can still interact with their handler. They should be rewarded for displaying calm behaviour instead of being asked to go and sniff other dogs or being asked to perform obedience tasks such as sit or down. 

Just being in these novel situations is a big deal for puppies so REWARD them for just being there. All training should be positive and be a  “game” to the puppy.

Wednesday, 23 February 2022

Welfare Welcome to Mac

Introducing Mac who came into welfare recently. He's about 5yrs old, and extremely loving. He can get a bit over excitable when he meets other dogs and he can also be strong on the lead.

If you're interested in providing a forever home for one of our rescued dogs then read about the process here - https://gsdwelfare.blogspot.com/p/adopting-german-shepherd-dog.html and get in touch!


Tuesday, 22 February 2022

Tia's Pupdates - Stalked in the Fields

I had to pause for this moment. At the time it almost consumed me with terror, and that seems silly reflecting back. How could I have known otherwise? After all I'd never really known  love or care from a hooman!

A couple of hours after my bold escape, the lady hooman arrived. I saw her enter the field and she must have thought herself smart because she'd brought treats with her. That wouldn't work now that I was big, brave, and strong. Although an undercurrent of fear lurked beneath my fierceness, so I ran, and she couldn’t catch me.

Over the next eight days I roamed around the different fields. I ran every time I saw anyone or anything, nothing and no-one could be trusted. I knew that I could keep myself safe, if only I knew what to do!  I'd gained my bravery, but even in my inexperienced  youth I realised that wouldn't be enough.

I regularly observed the lady hooman as she stalked me, but I always maintained my distance. I had to. If she had more of them treats, I might have succumbed to temptation.  I hadn’t eaten for so long my tummy rumbled, and my strength faded. I needn’t have worried because after I evaded her on numerous occasions, she left some food and drink. I'd never experienced such overwhelming delight after eating and drinking. I felt a bit stronger - I could survive forever like this!

On the eighth day, the hooman returned. Again. She didn’t try to come near me, but simply left me more food. I waited for her to leave and then  investigated. The lovely fishy aromas beguiled me, and while so eager to eat the fish I missed the signs of the danger around me. I hadn’t noticed the surrounding cage and the door had had already closed. 


Very shortly after, the hooman was back. Trapped in the cage I couldn't run, so I barked with all my might and flashed my teething. She didn't react, and just waited with dreadful patience.

Monday, 21 February 2022

Behavioural Topics - Dog Friendly Dogs

Animal behaviours can be complex and just like human behaviour, are responses arise from to many stimuli. A significant factor in dog behaviour is often people, their owners, family, and strangers. 

In this latest article Lisa Hird outlines one common situation you can help your dog with. 

Discover more about her work and training experience on her website: https://www.dogbehaviourclinic.co.uk/



Dog Friendly Dogs

A common situation many dog owners face, on a daily basis, is their on-lead dog being harassed or frightened by off lead dogs running over, followed by owners shouting, “It’s OK, my dog is friendly” or another dog owner and their dog coming right up close so they can say “Hello” because their dog is sociable and “just wants to say hi”.

Having a sociable dog is great but it doesn’t mean that just because they are sociable, they should be in other dogs faces, especially if the other dog is nervous or even reactive. 

Socialisation is the process by which puppies learn to relate and act appropriately to people and other animals. That doesn’t mean they should interact with every dog they see. Quite the opposite in fact. Socialisation is exposure to – not get to meet and play with every dog they see. 

It is not the job of other dogs to teach our dogs sociable behaviours. 

Many sociable dogs just want to play and when they can’t, they may pull or whine or begin to lunge towards the other dog. Quite apart from being sore and unpleasant for the handler, it can often set the greeting off on the wrong foot.

Imagine someone you don’t know, coming over to you, screaming HELLO in a loud voice, running at you with arms outstretched… worse still, you are tied up….

Saturday, 19 February 2022

Care Topics - Grooming Your GSD

To complement our existing Behavioural and Health topics we are now also adding General Care topics to help you provide your German Shepherd with the best care you can provide. This first article looks at grooming your German Shepherd and is provided by Debbie Hill, our chairman at the GSD Welfare Fund. If you have any tips or tricks for grooming your dog then share them in the comments below.

Grooming the German Shepherd Dog


Before you start grooming your German Shepherd, make sure that you have habituated him to the equipment you will be using. Let him see the equipment and pair it with a treat. Progress to touching him with the brush and reward him. If you have a nervous dog, don’t try to rush it. Think about using “The bucket game” (Chirag Patel) or chin targeting. You will find notes on this on our behaviour and training Facebook group. Once you have habituated your dog to the tools, you can start to brush him gently. Short sessions to begin with to stop him getting stressed or bored. After a couple of minutes, stop brushing and reward your dog with a treat or a game. Then resume the grooming for another couple of minutes and then reward with a treat or a game. Make grooming an enjoyable experience for him. 

With the standard coat GSD you can get away with grooming once a week or so, but with a long haired GSD, it probably needs to be done every other day. I prefer to use a rake on long coated and standard coats. I opted for the Karli double row rake. This will get the dead undercoat out. Once you have finished raking him, you can “polish” him with either a zoom groom or a slicker brush. I tend to use the zoom groom. You will be surprised how much dead hair this gets out. Don’t forget to check for knots. Their Trousers (boys) or bloomers (girls) can get tangled. If you have a long coated GSD, they are prone to knots behind the ears. I tend to cut these out if they are too bad as it can be painful for them if you try tugging the knots out.


Do not be tempted to bath your GSD too often as it can dry their skin. Every 3 months is plenty. I don’t even bath mine that much. Be mindful that some shampoos are carcinogenic. Try to use a more natural one with less chemicals. I like Cooper and Gracie or Avogel neem shampoo. Do not use human shampoo on your dog and avoid some of the dog shampoos available in the bargain stores. They are cheap for a reason. Some people use baby shampoo, but remember, Johnson and Johnson were successfully sued over cancer claims regarding their baby powder. Rinse thoroughly.

One of my best buys is my blaster. I could not be without it. You will be amazed at the dust and dead hair this blows out. I leave it at the back door, and give the dogs a quick blast as they come in if it has been raining or if they have been in puddles etc. They are powerful and noisy so the dog needs to be gradually habituated to it. Start by pairing the noise with treats. Do not have it too near the dog at this point. Only when your dog is not worried by the noise, progress to directing the nozzle towards his back from a distance making it an enjoyable experience paired with treats. Gradually work up to directing the nozzle on his coat. If the noise is too worrying for your dog, (some dogs are noise sensitive) try using ear mufflers on him, but remember, you will have to habituate him to these too. There are special licky mats (bath buddies) that you can use while blasting your dog.

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Check nails and ears regularly. Most dogs hate having their nails clipped. If they struggle as you are about to clip a nail, it can cause a problem. Always habituate your dog to the clippers and then use the bucket game (Chirag Patel) or chin rest (instructions for this on our training and behaviour Facebook group. Be careful not to cut the quick as this is painful for the dog. Look at the back of the nail and you will see the “vein like” quick. I usually put my finder under so I am protecting the quick when cutting. Cut at an angle. If you do and it bleeds, you can use cornflower to stem the flow of blood, but your dog will certainly be more wary next time. I like these clippers. Doggy man 7 inch. They are more expensive than some but are good. 


Ensure your dog's ears are kept clean. Start with a good ear cleaner applied in the ear and clean with cotton wool. The Cooper and Gracie range is nice. If you dog has any issues with his ears, try Thornit. I have used this for years and have known it clear problem ears when all else has failed. Just a quarter of a teaspoon in each ear. Again, habituate your dog then use the bucket game or chin rest.
Join our Facebook group if you have questions or would just like to talk with like minded owners - https://www.facebook.com/groups/230713463690105

Friday, 18 February 2022

Tia's Pupdates - Start at the Beginning

Yesterday I promised you my life story, and that  was easy to say into a mic (I do like how shapes appear on the hooman glowy box when I do that), but the reality of remembering and sharing is not so easy. However a bitch's word is her bond - more so than you can imagine and so we start at the beginning.

A lady bought me as a young pup, and she wanted me to be a guard dog. She wanted me to be big, brave, strong, and fierce. I tried, honest I did - I'm no slacker despite what some hooman might say, but really, I lacked the traits she expected of me. 

The lady never introduced me to things, so everything I encountered frightened me, and I barked but not through courage - simply fear of the unknown surrounding me at every waking moment. Still a pup, I still lacked size and strength. 

One day, some people came to the house and the lady handed them my lead and they put me in their car. They hadn’t spent any time getting to know me, so remained a confusion of unrecognised features and scents. Petrified into submission I didn’t dare bark this time. I lay still and wondered what would become of me. 

After a long journey we arrived at a house. The drive must have lasted two hours, or maybe more, but in my fear I couldn't be certain. They opened the car door, the biggest dog I'd ever seen waited for me.

I reacted instantly not knowing why these strange hoomans had brought me to this great beast, only knowing that I needed to flee to be safe.  I leapt out and ran for my life. Who knows what these people were going to do to me? Escape offered my only chance for survival, so I ran into a field and hid.

These humans continued looking for me but every time they came  near me, I showed them my teeth and pretended how fierce I could be. That worked and I must have looked big, brave, and strong then because they left. I did it. If only my owner could have seen me then. Maybe she would not have sent me away.