Sunday, 13 March 2022

Welfare Wagathon 2022

On February 20th we participated in the Welfare Wagathon. This was an idea from Frances, one of our long standing supporters. The premise was simple, people would gather in their local community and walk their dogs. Friends and family sponsored them to raise money for the GSD Welfare Fund. And the response was incredible.

People all over the country braved the high winds and took their dogs out. The Fenland German Shepherd group organised a meeting and so some could meet each other in person.

Thanks to everyone's efforts we raised an amazing £2,033 - we'd like to offer a huge thank you to everyone who took part. Your support for our work is amazing. Thank you.

The Welfare Wagathon does not end there! It will be back next year so we can gather again and build upon the this year's success.

If you missed the Welfare Wagathon and would like to contribute then you can donate here https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=L3XVV7ZC87XPC



Friday, 11 March 2022

Puppy Care Topics - Puppy Biting

There are many myths about puppy behaviour and training that occur in all breeds, but German Shepherds in particular have collected them over the years. In this Puppy Care Topic we look at many of those myths and their impact on a puppy's behaviour and how they should be trained.


Puppy Biting

Puppies engage in naughty behaviour - Puppies do not know that stealing things or chewing them is “naughty”. We need to prevent these things from happening by keeping them occupied and mentally tired.

Puppies need to be physically tired to get them calm - Puppies do not need lots of exercise to calm them down. A good rule of thumb is a ratio of five minutes’ exercise per month of age (up to twice a day) until the puppy is fully grown, i.e. 15 minutes (up to twice a day) when three months’ old, 20 minutes when four months old etc.

Teaching obedience cues will make them behave – If we bombard them with lots of cues, it will probably fall on deaf ears! What we do need to teach them is life skills

Puppies need to learn “No” means no – the word No has no meaning to puppies. Giving attention to unwanted behaviour is more likely to increase the behaviour rather than decrease it. We use prevention.

Puppies need to be punished so they learn what they cannot do - using punishment to stop a puppy engaging in unwanted behaviour can cause more problems. Smacking a puppy for doing something wrong, or even telling them off can seem to work, because the pain/surprise is supposed to make the puppy stop doing what she was doing. However, it can cause anxiety and fear and just add to the problems. Shouting or telling off can also be seen as rewarding – the puppy has gained your attention.

Play biting

Puppies start to intentionally bite their litter mates from about 2.5 weeks of age. As they begin to move about a little more, they will put their mouths on anything they can reach, and will bite each other, their mum, other dogs, and humans they meet. If it fits, they will get their mouth on it!

When we take them home, usually at about 8 weeks of age, we interrupt puppies right in the middle of their bitiest period with their littermates (usually about 7-9 weeks).

Puppy biting is social behaviour and not related to teething. Indeed, it tends to reduce just as teething begins at about 14/15/16 weeks of age.

Normal puppy biting goes away as puppies age; our work is aimed at preventing anything more serious developing. Puppies explore with their mouths, which nature has equipped with rows of teeny-tiny hole-punchers. It is no wonder that the leading complaint from puppy owners is “How do I stop him from biting?” The short answer is: You don’t!

Get lots of chew toys. Seriously, lots of them. Don’t skimp on the number or variety of chew toys your puppy has access to. Remember that to a puppy, literally everything in his path is a chew toy - ensure your things – shoes, plants, remote controls, etc. – are safely stored.)

When your puppy does pick up a toy, take advantage of the moment to reinforce this good behaviour by showering him with attention and praise. When your puppy is calm -praise him!

Introduce your pup to “latch ropes.” This doesn’t have to be anything special; the term describes any long item that can be dragged behind you as you move through your home.

Moving objects are an open invitation for puppies to latch on with their teeth. Feet, trouser legs, bath robe, hems – they are all fair game!

Using a latch rope means a puppy is more likely to latch onto that than to moving human feet. This is especially useful for kids who may feel terrorised each time they walk or run through the house.

Physical games including play-biting are natural games puppies play with each other and learn bite inhibition. When you bring your puppy home he may try to play the same games with you. Pups who are highly motivated to play can charge at owners, jumping up, nip hands and bite and tug on clothes.

If this is directed at a child who starts to cry or run or tries to push the pup away this may be misinterpreted by the puppy as being a playful response from the child who is now joining in the pup’s game.

Trying to cope with the pups increasingly rough attempts to initiate, demand and dictate play by giving in and doing what he wants will make it more likely that the pup will increase his play biting to get what he wants in the future. This can soon become a never-ending battle of nipping, biting, and jumping up.

Trying to hit or grab the pup will probably make him become rougher as to him you are responding and joining in his game or he may feel he has to defend himself against your increasing anger.

Resorting to distraction tactics during a play-biting situation like throwing a ball or waving a piece of food or even high-pitched squeals in front of the pups face to try to end the nipping can actually reward the pups demanding behaviour and rough style of play. In fact, the pup is learning to be even more pushy when he wants to play or get attention because it always works.

Using any form of harsh punishment is counterproductive. It may indeed stop the biting attack at the time. However, it holds no instruction to the puppy to encourage and develop more acceptable behaviour for the future. So, what to do to control the puppies masquerading as sharks.

It is quite a common problem with pups displaying varying degrees of the behaviour with some becoming more difficult to cope with especially for the companion dog owner.

The relationship and bond that a dog has as a family companion is special and with most puppies given sensible guidance early on, unruly behaviour gives way to a more controlled, calmer attitude as the pup grows up. But some are more persistent, and intervention is needed to communicate to the puppy in a way he can understand a more acceptable behaviour and relationship.

Management

Simply petting your puppy can sometimes prove difficult. He may view your hands on him as an invitation to play – and that means using his teeth!

AVOID SAYING NO!

Redirect on to a toy but if teeth go to your hand again, quietly remove your hands. If he begins to nibble clothes or arms etc, quietly leave the area. When you return, a minute later, hold out a toy towards the puppy to pre-empt him restarting the biting behaviour. The puppy needs to learn biting means the end of fun.

Try holding a chew toy for your puppy to gnaw on while your other hand gently strokes him. When done correctly, this is an excellent bonding experience.

People are often advised to squeal in a high-pitched voice or say ouch very loudly. This just leads to giving attention to the puppy.

Puppies will often try to nip and mouth when we attempt to give affection and it quickly turns into a game. Try gently touching the puppy with your hand at the same time as offering a small treat. Repeat keeping your hand on him for longer while giving treats. This teaches him that handling is nice and avoids him practising the mouthing behaviour in the first place.

Remain Calm while showing the pup the behaviour he can engage in .it can take some time, but the better you are the quicker he will learn.

To satisfy the pup’s motivation to play and be active be inventive in the games you teach him, such as find the toy hidden just out of sight encouraging him to use his nose as well as his eyes. Make it easy to find to start with to keep him interested. Include mental stimulation of highly rewarded fun life skills training.

Call him to you and reward him with a tiny treat or resume play interacting with a toy.

Teach him to wait, come when called, there is so much your clever puppy can do, giving him a positive outcome for his energy.

For play biting to decrease it is also important to follow some general management rules. Adding more opportunities for the puppy to take part in controlled interesting physical and mental games (suitable for his age) where success can stimulate the brains reward chemistry and change his emotions to be more relaxed, instead of driving everyone crazy with unruly behaviour and continuous pestering to play.

· No more games of rough and tumble encouraging the puppy to bite and grab hands.

· No more harsh handling or waving hands around the pups face.

· Never tease him.

· Always supervise young children with the puppy.

· If your puppy does something you don`t want do not let it happen again. Plan the incompatible rewarding behaviour.

· Concentrate on conditioning a well-behaved puppy.

· Notice and reward desired human –puppy interactions.

· Locating and joining a force free puppy class can be extremely beneficial. If possible find a GSD Breed Club.

Over time, as other suitable behaviours are reinforced with rewards and clear calm instructions the puppy will abandon rough play to gain attention or hard nipping to try to push the family as he would his litter mates.

All puppies and households are different, and any behaviour modification especially rough play biting is an on-going process and should be appropriate for the individual situation.

It can be difficult to manage puppies while carrying out necessary every day jobs such as preparing dinner or washing dishes. Use a puppy play pen to manage the puppy while you cannot supervise. Load the playpen with wonderful enrichment toys, a bed and water bowl.


This also begins to teach puppies that being alone can be fun. Remember to hide small treats throughout the pen and use interactive food toys or a Kong to associate good things with being in the play pen.

It is very likely you will encounter issues with your puppy biting. If after following all the above advice you feeling the biting is becoming problematic, then please contact us to discuss the problem.

Tuesday, 8 March 2022

Dickie's Diary - Playing is Learning


Hi everypawdy - puppy extraordinaire Dickie Hill back again, and look at me starring in my very own video! Mum wanted to show off how how clever I am and a man that looks a bit like a giant German Shepherd put this together. He's quite round, so I don't think he runs as often, or as fast as me.

Mum says that's rude, but it's still true. 

Mum keeps saying that she wants the best start in life with me and I agree - it does feel like the greatest start I could want. She often talks with Lisa, the training lady, and I do get a little bit worried that whatever they come up with next might prove too much for me. How silly of me, it remains all too easy each and every time!

Although, I did hear them talking about the Fear Period coming soon, now that doesn't sound like fun now does it? I'm sure I'll be fine though.




Monday, 7 March 2022

Behavioural Topics - Let's Talk about Enrichment

In Lisa Hird's latest Behavioural Top article she explains how best to use enrichment. This is useful advice for all breed, not just German Shepherds, although GSDs do tend to require stimulating activities like this - or they may make their own!

Discover more about Lisa's work, ethos, and training experience on her website: https://www.dogbehaviourclinic.co.uk/

 Let's Talk about Enrichment

Enrichment for our dogs seems to be the buzzword at the moment. In many ways, this is great news. We should be providing activities that are mentally stimulating and enrich our dogs environments. But - there is always a but - enrichment can actually cause more problems if it isn't suited to the individual dog. 

Individual is one of my favourite words whether we are talking about activities, walks, diet, motivators, environment - we must take into account the individual dog.

There are some amazing Facebook pages and groups that have lots of truly innovative ideas for mental stimulation and enrichment.

However, we must consider the individual dog! I have spoken to quite a few people who say their dog is not interested in puzzle games/mental stimulation/enrichment ideas.

Providing enrichment isn't as straightforward as just giving a puzzle toy though. As with any training we do with our dogs, we must set them up for success.

For example:

My male Staffie is a real problem solver, but my female Staffie soon gets bored if she can't get to the food quickly enough. In fact, she would bark in protest! Not something we want to encourage!

My German Shepherd girl is wary of new things and won't even attempt some puzzle games. If it hasn't got real chicken or ostrich treats it isn't worth attempting. If we make the game too difficult or too noisy she may become anxious.

Things to consider:

How we introduce the puzzle - for nervous dogs it is a good idea to prepare the activity first to avoid making lots of noise while setting it up. Quietly place on the floor and encourage the dog to engage - and then let the dog explore. Choose something really easy such as a treat underneath an old towel or treats in a cutlery draw organiser, along with some toys.

The difficulty level - if the puzzle is too difficult, dogs will not engage and it can have the opposite effect. Instead of building confidence it can actually decrease it.  Start with easy puzzles so the dog enjoys finding the food and gradually increase the difficulty level. Set them up to succeed.

The food we use - if the dog is not motivated by the food he is unlikely to bother working to find it. Using a portion of their dinner might work later on, but we need to use something tasty, at least to begin with. Moist, soft treats tend to work best.

Where we use it - if you have a multi dog household we need to be careful not to cause problems between dogs. Some dogs will be reluctant to interact if there is another dog around. Stair gates between dogs or dogs in other rooms often provide a feeling of security and allow the dogs to explore. In multi dog households a little 1:1 time with each dog is a good thing to do anyway.

Which puzzles we use - A Kong Wobbler for example would not be a good idea for a noise phobic or nervous dog. These are designed to roll around - have you heard one when it hits a radiator?

If your dog does not seem interested in using puzzle toys, scattering treats in the garden or hiding them behind pots/seats/sheds etc can often encourage them to engage.

Sunday, 6 March 2022

Dickie's Diary - Easy Peasy

I believe I can fly...
Dickie Hill here - puppy extraordinaire! We're near the end of my origin story (yes I do think I may be a superhero when I grow up!) and I hope you've enjoyed it. I sure enjoyed living it!

Mum told me that the updates on my brothers and sisters mentioned that they were taking naps. No one had found how to remove my batteries out yet, so I kept going. We visited the garden several times a day and there were so many interesting smells I just couldn't get them all. I also learned how to walk on different surfaces, like grass, wood, tin, plastic, shingle, stones, and wood chips. Mum led me to  a wobble board and across a swing bridge. Mum explained this would help me develop and build confidence. 

It was too easy peasy for me though. See you all soon!

Follow my latest adventures on...



Friday, 4 March 2022

Competition Time - Guess the Teddy Bear's Name!

THIS COMPETITION IS NOW CLOSED!


Hi everyone! It's competition time and one of our generous supporters has donated this lovely Teddy Bear for a competition to raise funds for the German Shepherd Dog Welfare Fund. They commit to not only rescuing vulnerable GSDs, but also to never euthanise unless absolutely necessary - and so also provide life long care for dogs with complicated health and behavioural issues.

Entry is £1 per guess, or you can buy 6 guesses for £5 using the button below.

The competition ends midnight 27th March 2022 (UK time). If there is more than one correct guess, then the first received guess will win the prize. Please enter only the correct number of guesses, if there are too many then only the first will be taken.

Note that you don't need a PayPal account to enter, you can use the guest payment option instead when offered.


THIS COMPETITION IS NOW CLOSED!










Thursday, 3 March 2022

Tia's Pupdates - My New Home

My first foray out of the kennel
Hi everypawdy - Tia here with the conclusion to how I now live with the GSD Welfare Fund. I hope you enjoyed it, because it wasn't at all catty-tartic like I'd been told. Luckily for the hooman I'm too polite to say "I told you so".

We drove for a while and eventually arrived at a house. I heard lots of dogs barking but I couldn’t see any yet. It didn't sound welcoming and my fierceness and bravery had long slipped away. 

They carried the crate out from the van and placed it in front of a kennel. Before opening the cage door, they poked wire through the bars at me. What were they playing at?! Oh no! I bet they wanted me to be one of those dancing bears. Some bravery returned with that thought - they could think again! I was no dancing bear! So I pulled away from the wire, and the harness that I had been wearing since I left my original home slipped off in a flash of pain. But after that pain came soothing relief even though I was sore and bleeding underneath where the harness had rubbed me since my initial escape.

With the harness removed, they opened the cage, and I ran straight into cool darkness of the inviting kennel. The hooman didn’t follow, and didn't approach closer except to deliver food. This routine continued for a couple of days. She talked to me as she came by, and tossed treats for me but kept her distance and try didn’t try encouraging me to come closer. 

They were tasty treats too. Sosagies and chimkin. I can almost taste them just by thinking of them!  As far as I was concerned she could toss as many as them as she liked. On the fifth day I summoned my bravery and decided to approach her and see if she would be friends with me. It wouldn’t hurt to have the hooman as a friend if she had plenty chimkin for me. This went really well, and I realised that felt safe with her. 

She never asked me to do anything or didn’t try to do anything to me without me instigating it. The hooman can be a bit annoying at times. She isn’t much fun either, but I know she loves me.

Well that's my story and I appreciate my hooman assistant editing out that last part before posting it. We don't need the hooman to know everything - she needs to work at it. Anyway, back soon with some more fun adventures. Love Tia