In less than a week Lexi's litter will leave our care and go off to their new forever homes. It's certainly been an exciting time with them here, and now we're not only busy getting everything ready for the pups, but also making sure that their owners are fully prepared. We've compiled an article for them with tips and advice on caring for the pubs, which we've shared below. Please note that while this guide was written for GSD pups, the advice applies to all breeds.
AND SO, YOU’VE GOT YOUR PUPPY
So now you have brought your cute little puppy home. He is going to be the perfect little puppy, isn’t he? Well, that is what we hope, and he can be with a little guidance, patience, understanding and time. GSD Welfare fund have done all we can to give this puppy the best start in life to help this bundle of joy grow into a good-natured dog that is easy to live with. We have aimed to give you the best foundation to build on, but how you rear your puppy will have a huge impact.
Like a child, puppies do not know right from wrong – we must show them. All puppies will poo in the wrong place, bark at the wrong time, bite you with those needle-sharp teeth and tear up your favourite things. The main thing to remember is that all these things are natural behaviours to a puppy, and he does not know he is doing wrong (no matter how much we think he is doing it just to get back at us). It is up to us to teach this little bundle of squidgeyness what we expect of him and how he should behave in our human household. If we just take a little time to find out what puppies/dogs are really like (not little babies in furry suits) and work with it, so many problems can be avoided. We hope the following snippets of advice will help you establish a good relationship with your new best friend.
If you have any problems, doubts, or worries then please don't hesitate to contact us immediately. We offer a backup service and are happy to give you guidance, advice, and information. We've set up a Facebook group especially for these puppies where you can share all the ups and downs you may experience, but mainly to give you advice. So, let’s get started!
PUTTING THE BABY TO BED
I personally always use a crate or playpen for puppies although lots of people still think the idea of putting their precious pup in a cage or crate is wicked or cruel. He should have the run of the house, shouldn’t he? But would you fetch a baby home and just lay him on the table to roll off or lay on the floor and chew through a wire to get electrocuted? Why should a puppy be any different? He needs his safe place to sleep where he feels secure and will come to no harm. He needs somewhere to run to get out the way when he needs some space. It is imperative that we give him his safe place to keep him out of danger. It should be big enough for him to stretch out, stand up and move about. He will need some bedding for curling up and sleeping on. His crate should always be a nice, pleasant place to be not somewhere he goes to be punished. Even if he has been naughty and we want him out the way for a while to give us a rest, we should put him in there with a treat or a stuffed Kong and a kind word – not a scolding as we put him in there.
Most pups will happily accept a crate and, with training, they will soon learn that it is a safe and secure place in your home or in foreign surroundings (if you take a trip away from home). It is always better to start training your pup earlier in the day rather than expecting to be able to put him in his crate at bedtime and for him to settle. If you do, it is only natural that your puppy will become distressed and cry or howl. I tend to put an old t shirt (I wear it for bed the night before or through the day to get my scent on it) in with them and some toys and treats that they will enjoy. Make the crate a nice place to be. Feed his meals in there. DO NOT EXPECT TO PUT YOUR PUP IN THE CRATE AND SHUT THE DOOR AND LEAVE HIM. It takes time. Make sure your pup has toileted before putting him in.
As well as needing a secure place, your puppy will also need to learn to relax. After he has had a play time session or a training session his adrenaline levels will rise. If we do not give him the opportunity for them to come down, the adrenaline levels will keep rising. This is usually when people say their puppy is out of control. If instead, once he has had his play time or training session, we put him in his crate with something to occupy him, he will start to relax. Dogs do not naturally know how to be calm. It is our responsibility to teach them.
The first night for the puppy in his new home can be traumatic. He's separated from his litter mates and all that is familiar to him, then we expect to put him to bed and leave him for the night. The old-fashioned idea was to put them to bed and then ignore them when they are crying. Going back to them will teach them to cry to get you back. We now know that leaving a puppy to cry causes him to be stressed and stress can kill of neurons. I usually put a crate next to my bed so they feel safe. Once the puppy feels secure in the new home, the crate can start being moved gradually towards the area of preference.
POTTY TRAINING
Your puppy will think it is natural to suddenly stop what he is doing and wee and poo where he thinks is a good place. REMEMBER - he doesn't know any different. Also, he will not have very good bladder or bowel control at such a young age, so it is important to remind him he needs to go.
All puppies need to go after eating, after drinking, after sleeping and after playing. Usually, every hour or so. He will probably get fidgety and start sniffing around for what he thinks is a good place. It is important you take them directly to the area you want the puppy to use to relieve himself and wait until he goes. When he does, give him lots and lots of praise with a treat and let him come inside again and have a little game.
If he should have any accidents, completely ignore it, and clean it up without saying anything to the puppy. Remember, if he has an accident, it was your fault for not paying attention to him. Try to remember to take your puppy to the toilet area at all the obvious times i.e. just as he wakes, after eating, every hour etc. Your puppy will soon learn to hold himself for longer. More so while he is in his crate as they do not like to soil their bedding area.
However, this does not mean you can leave him in there for hours expecting him to hold himself. He may get fidgety to let you know he needs to toilet rather then if he is roaming around. So, when he first comes out of his crate, take him to the toilet area. If he does make a mistake and you shout at him and scold him, all you will teach him is to hide the next time he needs to go so you cannot see him do it and therefore, don’t shout at him. It is a good idea to use a cue for him to toilet and every time you take your puppy out and he goes, keep repeating the cue i.e., “busy”. Basically, tell him what he is doing. This will eventually get him to be able to spend on cue so when you are getting him prepared for bedtime of if you want him to spend before you go out, you can take him out and give him the cue rather then standing around for ages waiting for him to go.
THE PARTY ANIMAL
Your puppy needs to be well socialised before he is 12 weeks old. This includes people of all types – people with beards, glasses, hats, people in uniforms, people with disabilities, children running about, children in prams and pushchairs, screaming children, bicycles, men with loud voices and so on.
He also needs to be introduced to all sorts of noises like the washing machine, hoover, radio, doors slamming, and busy streets with traffic roaring passed. He needs to experience car rides, bus rides or whatever he might have to come across in his lifetime. The more he does before he is 12 weeks old the better, but this is not a race. Move at a pace the puppy can cope with. Be sure not to let your pup get overwhelmed, otherwise it will have the opposite effect (flooding). He should meet lots of different dogs. This does not mean letting him play with every dog he sees.
It is a good idea to teach the puppy to be calm around other dogs or as they pass by. So many people think they are doing right by letting their dog play with every dog they see in the name of socialising. The dog then thinks every dog is friendly and that every dog is happy to be approached and jumped on. He is likely to get told off doing this which in turn will give him an aversive association with dogs. It is a good idea to take him to sit in the vet’s waiting room, giving him treats whilst there so he regards it as a good experience and will be relaxed when he needs to visit the vet rather than waiting until he needs to be seen and have the vet pull him about. You need to be able to touch him all over, look in his ears, his mouth, his eyes, under his tail, between his claws. Start by just gently stroking him all over and pairing with treats so it is a good experience for him. If you can do all this while he is a puppy, you will end up with a well socialised dog that you can take anywhere without him getting nervous and the risk of him fear biting.
Remember, this is not a “to do” list. All puppies will process socialising in different ways. Always make sure your puppy is coping with what is happening. If children approach to fuss him, pair it with a treat to give it a good association but end the session sooner rather than later so your pup sees it as a positive experience rather than getting worried by it.
We have tried to do as much as we can with these puppies before they leave us. They have been socialised with children. They have been in the car. They have been to a pet shop and been wheeled around in a shopping trolley for a meet and greet. They have been introduced to other dogs. This will give them an amazing starting point, but you need to continue with all these positive associations. At 8 weeks old they are like little sponges. At 12 weeks of age, puppies go through a fear period. This should be known as “fear of the unknown”. So, if they have already had positive experiences of all these things, they will have a great advantage.
If you are worried about letting your puppy walk on the ground before his vaccinations, then try to think of other ways you can get them around. A second-hand pushchair (using a harness to strap them in) is a great idea. A bit of vet bed in a pet store trolley and wheel them around. Carry them. Sit with them in a supermarket carpark so they see lots of people. If you put your mind to it, there are many ways you can socialise without endangering your pup.
TEETHING TROUBLES
All puppies mouth and bite. It is just what they are genetically programmed to do. If you watch two dogs playing together, you will notice they use their mouth A LOT. Whilst this may be OK if they are playing with another dog, when it is a human on the receiving end, even though in play, it can hurt.
The problem is our reaction to this. Most people react by pulling away, pushing the dog away, shouting no, even yelping. If your dog was human and you could explain to him then this might work. Your dog is not human and unless you have taught him what no means, he will not understand. It is almost guaranteed that he will see all the pushing away, pulling away, yelping etc as part of the game so in fact, instead of stopping the biting, you will make it worse. The puppy will think he has a wonderful game going on, and what is more, he can instigate this game whenever he likes. As the puppies get older, the biting gets harder and they get more practice at it and the humans push harder, shout louder etc. Puppy thinks this is great.
The first thing you need to do to address this, is STOP REACTING. DON'T push the dog away, DON'T shout and scream and DON'T pull away. As difficult as it may be, try to stay calm and walk out of the room. You need the puppy to learn that the biting is not acceptable. It is not a game. The best way for him to learn is to work it out himself. So, when puppy bites, without a word or pushing away, take yourself out of the room for 30 seconds.
When you come back into the room, have some treats ready and reward him for all calm behaviour (if you start a clicker session as you walk in the room, a) he will not restart the biting game and b) you will still be interacting with him - which is what he wants but it will be in a controlled manner. Or have a toy held towards him so he will hopefully learn to bite them instead. If he starts to mouth again, walk out without a word. Your puppy will soon work out that instead of starting a game with you, it drives you away.
At the beginning the puppy may try harder and harder to initiate this game again. Do not give in. As soon as your puppy starts to try to initiate this game, take yourself out of the room. If you slip up once and push him away, you are back at the beginning again because the puppy will learn that if he is persistent, the game starts. As soon as he tries to start this game leave the room rather than waiting for it to get in full swing. If you wait until he is hanging off you, it will be difficult to just walk away. Provide lots of teething toys. Your puppy will have his own latch rope in his puppy pack (please see play biting document in the group). A wet tea towel rolled up and frozen is really soothing for them. Raw bones from the butchers will give him chance to use those needle teeth. Cold carrots are also good.
SOOTHERS
Another piece of equipment that I would not be without is a “Kong”. These are hard rubber toys with a hollow middle to stuff with food and treats to keep our puppy occupied and stimulated. Rather than just being able to scoff down the treats, he must learn to get them out of his “soother”.
You can use all kinds of things to stuff it with. Bits of his daily food, treats, left over table scraps etc. Some kibble mixed with some Applaws pate works very well. If you smear a bit of pate around the opening to give him a taste of what is in there it should keep him occupied for ages.
Peanut butter is another good one but please ensure that it does not contain zylitol.
The contents should not easily fall out. He should get a taster and then work for the rest. It is a good idea to give him his soother at bedtime or when you leave him. Usually, I give them one and start leaving them in the room on their own (in their safe area of course) for a couple of minutes to get him used to being left. Start with a couple of minutes and very gradually work up the time you are out of the room so that when he does have to be left on his own it is no big deal for him – he will learn to settle down to chew on his soother using some of his energy so he will be content to have a nap after. Always give him his Kong in his safe area and give it a name (my dogs know it as 'bot bots'). That way, every time he sees you preparing it, or you say “bot bots” he will automatically run into his safe area.
FEEDING FIDO
Dogs are carnivores so the best diet for your puppy is a natural one as nature intended. This consists of feeding raw meaty bones, i.e chicken wings or drumsticks, chicken carcases, breasts of lamb or pet mince (with the bone included) all fed raw. Remember, their systems are designed to digest raw meat and bones not for eating processed complete meals. Would you feed a human burger and chips every day of their life? That is what you will effectively be doing with the processed diets. The benefits your puppy will get from feeding this way are too numerous to list but it is recommended that you read a book from the suggested reading list for more information. NEVER feed COOKED bones at any age – these can be very dangerous for your puppy or dog.
If you are feeding a proper diet to your puppy, you will not need to supplement with anything else. Do not put his food down and leave it down all day. If he is not chomping his way through it after 10 minutes– pick it up until the next feed. Always feed to keep the puppy well covered but not fat.
If you feel raw feeding is not for you then a good quality kibble where meat is listed as the first ingredient can be used. Your puppy has been reared on a mixture of Arden Grange and raw mince. Please remember, not all kibble is the same. There are cheap versions available, but if you look at the contents, it will be filled mainly with grains. So many dogs can develop an allergy to grain. Also, the meat content will be “by products”. This can mean, for instance, just the chicken claws if chicken is listed as the protein. In the very cheap ones, this can even mean the sawdust they have toileted on. Remember the sayings “we are what we eat” and “let food be thy medicine”? By investing in a quality kibble, you will save in the long run with less visits to the vet. Some kibbles can make your puppy hyperactive if they contain too many colourings and additives. We are always here to help you chose and give you advise.
WIGGLY WORMS
Your puppy has been treated for worms whilst in our care to ensure they are worm free. With more and more research disclosing how well herbal and homeopathic remedies work, it is well worth considering this option. With traditional remedies ie. Drontal, Panacur or Strongid you are effectively poisoning your puppy’s system every time you worm them. The old method of worming your pup “just in case” is proving to be detrimental to the pup’s health. If you do decide to use a conventional wormer, then maybe just use it if you see any signs of an infestation. It might be a good idea to give him some natural yoghurt and honey – tablespoon of yoghurt with a teaspoon of clear honey after treatment.
The same goes with the flea treatments that are available. Most of them contain Dichlorvos which is described in a chemical directory as being “highly hazardous and poisonous if absorbed through the skin”. Fipronil is another regular ingredient in these treatments. If you google fipronil you will see it is basically a nerve gas. It kills the fleas by attacking their nervous system, but it must be in your dog’s blood stream to do so. Quite scary. We have seen puppies nearly die after application. Avoid any oral form of flea/worm treatment at all costs. Again, it might well be worth going down the herbal/homeopathic route. (Neem is a brilliant alternative for flea treatment).
VACCINATIONS
The subject of vaccinations is a very controversial one. Vets tend not to tell us about the side effects of the vaccines and lead us to believe that they are safe, and you must have them. What they do not tell you is that vaccinating can result in the death of your dog and vaccinated dogs still catch the diseases we vaccinate against.
It has been scientifically proven that a dog keeps his immunity for life from his puppy vaccines. The WORLD veterinary association are advising 3 yearly boosters, yet the BRITISH veterinary association advises annual vaccination. Have you ever stopped to think why? Money is probably the main reason.
AVOID LEPTO 4. Lots of informed breeders are now using homeopathic vaccines called nosodes. These have no side effects and are very effective. Plus, you can start them much earlier which means your puppy can go out sooner to be socialised. Please read up on the subject so whatever decision you make regarding vaccinating your dog will be an informed decision and you will be aware of the risks.
MEDALLION MAN
So many people see a choke chain as the answer for stopping their dog from pulling. These aversive training collars do so much damage. People may tell you they are fine to use but just remember that the thyroid and other glands are in the area that these chains would be pushing against, therefore doing damage.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD YOU USE A CHOKE CHAIN.
The actual answer is to train your pup not to pull in the first please. When you first get your puppy, it is unlikely that he will have learned to pull by then. So, when you do start walking him, use lots of praise and treats as he is walking with you on a loose lead. Think of the old saying “prevention is better than cure”. If he should start to pull, stop walking and wait for him to look back to see why you have stopped. As he looks at you, offer a treat and he will likely come back to you for the treat. By doing this, we are treating him for tuning in with you and encouraging him to loosen the lead. Once he has had his treat, start walking again. If he gets excited and starts to pull, repeat the procedure.
Dogs do what works. If pulling you along is fun, he will do it. If tuning into you and coming back to you earns him treats, he will do it. Your puppy will come with a TTouch harness, and we recommend you continue to use these as he grows. These harnesses are brilliantly designed for comfort so as not to give a bad association. They also have a D ring on the chest and one on the back for use with a double ended lead. This is called a balance lead. Should your puppy start to pull, the ring on his chest will automatically steer him back towards you but the idea is not to let the pulling start in the first place. Remember, reward all the good calm walking so he is likely to repeat it.
LET’S PLAY
For the first four months your puppy should not need to be walked for long distances or time. The average rule is 5 minutes per month of age. He will need lead training and most importantly, socialising with people and other dogs but most of his exercising can be done in the garden. Do not let him/her play unsupervised with other dogs who will probably be likely to over tire them. If the other dog is older and stronger it may bully them thus making your puppy fearful of other dogs.
Always supervise them with children. Children may not mean to be spiteful but if they are pulling on puppy’s tail or poking him in the eye, he will learn to dislike children thinking all children hurt him and when he is older this could cause a big problem.
Think about what you want from your puppy. Playing lots of tuggy games may encourage your puppy to get over aroused. On the other hand, if we encourage lots of sniffing and enrichment, your puppy should remain calmer and therefore easier to live with. Lots of little training sessions using positive reinforcement are also advisable, but this should appear to be a game to your puppy. Teach the puppy that laying down calmly earns him treats. It is a fantastic position to be in. Do lots of “it’s up to you” with him. Basically, show him there is a treat to be earned but without you saying a word. If he clambers on you for it, do not let him have it. Let him work out what will win him the treat… if he backs off/sits/lays down, then say good and toss him the treat. He will soon start offering all these behaviours because they are “good” for him. When giving him his dinner, do not say anything, but again, just wait for him to offer something, and as he does tell him to take it.
Plenty of rest and sleep are important whilst they are growing so quickly. Keep nails trimmed to keep feet looking nice and neat and tight.
NO JUMPING ON OR OFF FURNITURE OR RUNNING UP AND DOWN THE STAIRS as young bones, tendons and ligaments can suffer permanent damage from such activity.
NEVER give them small balls to play with as they can swallow them and get them caught in their throat. Tennis balls are not a good idea either. We prefer a ball on a rope.
DO NOT throw sticks for them to chase. This can be fatal.
AND FINALLY
Just remember as soon as you get your puppy home start treating him how you intend to carry on. Do not think he needs time to settle in before you start potty training him. As soon as you get your puppy home take him to the garden or toilet area – he is bound to want to go. If you are not going to want him sprawled out on the settee when he is grown, then do not let him up there as a puppy just because he looks cute.
Start with his basic training – using positive reinforcement of course! If you do not want him begging at the dinner table when you have guests – then never feed him from your plate – save the scraps to do some training with or to put in his Kong.
When you give him his dinner, it may be an idea to save some until he is halfway through then go and give him some more. This way he will learn that people approaching whilst he is eating, is a good thing rather than feeling the need to guard it. He will learn that approaching people will probably bring something nice to put in his bowl – not take it away. If your puppy should growl at you when he is eating, DO NOT take his food away. If you do, this will only confirm his fears, just keep a bit further back, and toss some food at him.
If he jumps up you, do not pet him. Wait until all 4 feet are on the floor then pet him. It might seem cute having a little 8-week-old puppy jumping up at you to get your attention, but a full-grown dog could knock you flying. Take your puppy to a puppy training class. Please ensure they only use positive reinforcement training. Do not let your puppy be overwhelmed at these classes. Let him do things at a pace he is comfortable with. If you have any queries or doubts, please call us immediately. Avoid training classes that use aversive methods.
We hope these guidance notes have provided you with some useful information and get you on the right tracks to rearing a happy and healthy dog. If there is anything you are not sure about or would like further information on, please do not hesitate to contact us. We might not have all the answers, but we will be willing to try to help or to find someone that does have the answers. Enjoy your puppy.
RECIPE FOR PUPPY PIE
TAKE ONE PUPPY, ROLL AND PLAY UNTIL LIGHTLY PAMPERED AND THEN ADD THE FOLLOWING INGREDIENTS:
ONE CUP OF PATIENCE
ONE CUP OF UNDERSTANDING
ONE PINCH OF CORRECTION
ONE CUP OF HARD WORK
TWO CUPS OF PRAISE
ONE CUP OF FUN
BLEND WELL, HEAT WITH THE WARMTH OF YOUR HEART UNTIL RAISED OR UNTIL PUPPY HAS DOUBLED IN SIZE.
MIX WITH OWNER UNTIL CONSISTENCY IS SUCH THAT PUPPY AND OWNER ARE ONE.
ENJOY YOUR PIE!
By law, your dog must always wear an identity tag when in public with the owners’ name, address and phone number on. Neglecting to do so may result in a fine of £1,000 or more. (www.identitag.co.uk)
You are also required by law to secure your dog while in transit in a vehicle. A secured crate is ideal. You can also use caging to enclose the boot or other area of the vehicle. Attachments for harnesses can also be used – never use these in conjunction with a slip lead, or attached directly to a collar as you risk serious injury or fatality if there was an accident. Visit https://www.animaltrust.org.uk/blog/how-to-travel-in-the-car-with-your-dog/ to learn more.
RECOMMENDED READING : Shock to the system by Catherine O’Driscoll. Work Wonders by Tom Lonsdale. Bones would rain from the sky by Suzanne Clothier. Anything by Suzanne Clothier. The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson
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