There are many myths about puppy behaviour and training that occur in all breeds, but German Shepherds in particular have collected them over the years. In this Puppy Care Topic we look at many of those myths and their impact on a puppy's behaviour and how they should be trained.
Puppies engage in naughty behaviour - Puppies do not know that stealing things or chewing them is “naughty”. We need to prevent these things from happening by keeping them occupied and mentally tired.
Puppies need to be physically tired to get them calm - Puppies do not need lots of exercise to calm them down. A good rule of thumb is a ratio of five minutes’ exercise per month of age (up to twice a day) until the puppy is fully grown, i.e. 15 minutes (up to twice a day) when three months’ old, 20 minutes when four months old etc.
Teaching obedience cues will make them behave – If we bombard them with lots of cues, it will probably fall on deaf ears! What we do need to teach them is life skills
Puppies need to learn “No” means no – the word No has no meaning to puppies. Giving attention to unwanted behaviour is more likely to increase the behaviour rather than decrease it. We use prevention.
Puppies need to be punished so they learn what they cannot do - using punishment to stop a puppy engaging in unwanted behaviour can cause more problems. Smacking a puppy for doing something wrong, or even telling them off can seem to work, because the pain/surprise is supposed to make the puppy stop doing what she was doing. However, it can cause anxiety and fear and just add to the problems. Shouting or telling off can also be seen as rewarding – the puppy has gained your attention.
Play biting
Puppies start to intentionally bite their litter mates from about 2.5 weeks of age. As they begin to move about a little more, they will put their mouths on anything they can reach, and will bite each other, their mum, other dogs, and humans they meet. If it fits, they will get their mouth on it!
When we take them home, usually at about 8 weeks of age, we interrupt puppies right in the middle of their bitiest period with their littermates (usually about 7-9 weeks).
Puppy biting is social behaviour and not related to teething. Indeed, it tends to reduce just as teething begins at about 14/15/16 weeks of age.
Normal puppy biting goes away as puppies age; our work is aimed at preventing anything more serious developing. Puppies explore with their mouths, which nature has equipped with rows of teeny-tiny hole-punchers. It is no wonder that the leading complaint from puppy owners is “How do I stop him from biting?” The short answer is: You don’t!
Get lots of chew toys. Seriously, lots of them. Don’t skimp on the number or variety of chew toys your puppy has access to. Remember that to a puppy, literally everything in his path is a chew toy - ensure your things – shoes, plants, remote controls, etc. – are safely stored.)
When your puppy does pick up a toy, take advantage of the moment to reinforce this good behaviour by showering him with attention and praise. When your puppy is calm -praise him!
Introduce your pup to “latch ropes.” This doesn’t have to be anything special; the term describes any long item that can be dragged behind you as you move through your home.
Moving objects are an open invitation for puppies to latch on with their teeth. Feet, trouser legs, bath robe, hems – they are all fair game!
Using a latch rope means a puppy is more likely to latch onto that than to moving human feet. This is especially useful for kids who may feel terrorised each time they walk or run through the house.
Physical games including play-biting are natural games puppies play with each other and learn bite inhibition. When you bring your puppy home he may try to play the same games with you. Pups who are highly motivated to play can charge at owners, jumping up, nip hands and bite and tug on clothes.
If this is directed at a child who starts to cry or run or tries to push the pup away this may be misinterpreted by the puppy as being a playful response from the child who is now joining in the pup’s game.
Trying to cope with the pups increasingly rough attempts to initiate, demand and dictate play by giving in and doing what he wants will make it more likely that the pup will increase his play biting to get what he wants in the future. This can soon become a never-ending battle of nipping, biting, and jumping up.
Trying to hit or grab the pup will probably make him become rougher as to him you are responding and joining in his game or he may feel he has to defend himself against your increasing anger.
Resorting to distraction tactics during a play-biting situation like throwing a ball or waving a piece of food or even high-pitched squeals in front of the pups face to try to end the nipping can actually reward the pups demanding behaviour and rough style of play. In fact, the pup is learning to be even more pushy when he wants to play or get attention because it always works.
Using any form of harsh punishment is counterproductive. It may indeed stop the biting attack at the time. However, it holds no instruction to the puppy to encourage and develop more acceptable behaviour for the future. So, what to do to control the puppies masquerading as sharks.
It is quite a common problem with pups displaying varying degrees of the behaviour with some becoming more difficult to cope with especially for the companion dog owner.
The relationship and bond that a dog has as a family companion is special and with most puppies given sensible guidance early on, unruly behaviour gives way to a more controlled, calmer attitude as the pup grows up. But some are more persistent, and intervention is needed to communicate to the puppy in a way he can understand a more acceptable behaviour and relationship.
Management
Simply petting your puppy can sometimes prove difficult. He may view your hands on him as an invitation to play – and that means using his teeth!
AVOID SAYING NO!
Redirect on to a toy but if teeth go to your hand again, quietly remove your hands. If he begins to nibble clothes or arms etc, quietly leave the area. When you return, a minute later, hold out a toy towards the puppy to pre-empt him restarting the biting behaviour. The puppy needs to learn biting means the end of fun.
Try holding a chew toy for your puppy to gnaw on while your other hand gently strokes him. When done correctly, this is an excellent bonding experience.
People are often advised to squeal in a high-pitched voice or say ouch very loudly. This just leads to giving attention to the puppy.
Puppies will often try to nip and mouth when we attempt to give affection and it quickly turns into a game. Try gently touching the puppy with your hand at the same time as offering a small treat. Repeat keeping your hand on him for longer while giving treats. This teaches him that handling is nice and avoids him practising the mouthing behaviour in the first place.
Remain Calm while showing the pup the behaviour he can engage in .it can take some time, but the better you are the quicker he will learn.
To satisfy the pup’s motivation to play and be active be inventive in the games you teach him, such as find the toy hidden just out of sight encouraging him to use his nose as well as his eyes. Make it easy to find to start with to keep him interested. Include mental stimulation of highly rewarded fun life skills training.
Call him to you and reward him with a tiny treat or resume play interacting with a toy.
Teach him to wait, come when called, there is so much your clever puppy can do, giving him a positive outcome for his energy.
For play biting to decrease it is also important to follow some general management rules. Adding more opportunities for the puppy to take part in controlled interesting physical and mental games (suitable for his age) where success can stimulate the brains reward chemistry and change his emotions to be more relaxed, instead of driving everyone crazy with unruly behaviour and continuous pestering to play.
· No more games of rough and tumble encouraging the puppy to bite and grab hands.
· No more harsh handling or waving hands around the pups face.
· Never tease him.
· Always supervise young children with the puppy.
· If your puppy does something you don`t want do not let it happen again. Plan the incompatible rewarding behaviour.
· Concentrate on conditioning a well-behaved puppy.
· Notice and reward desired human –puppy interactions.
· Locating and joining a force free puppy class can be extremely beneficial. If possible find a GSD Breed Club.
Over time, as other suitable behaviours are reinforced with rewards and clear calm instructions the puppy will abandon rough play to gain attention or hard nipping to try to push the family as he would his litter mates.
All puppies and households are different, and any behaviour modification especially rough play biting is an on-going process and should be appropriate for the individual situation.
It can be difficult to manage puppies while carrying out necessary every day jobs such as preparing dinner or washing dishes. Use a puppy play pen to manage the puppy while you cannot supervise. Load the playpen with wonderful enrichment toys, a bed and water bowl.
This also begins to teach puppies that being alone can be fun. Remember to hide small treats throughout the pen and use interactive food toys or a Kong to associate good things with being in the play pen.
It is very likely you will encounter issues with your puppy biting. If after following all the above advice you feeling the biting is becoming problematic, then please contact us to discuss the problem.
Despite sounding boring, and still disappointed by the lack of creamy cheese, it was easy peasy really. We approach each other with our mums by our side and just as we say hello we're guided away from each other. Three seconds isn't enough for proper snifftroductions, but if we're both calm then we can say hello properly. Which is aces. And there was creamy cheese for licking, although some of it did end up on my nose, so I had to keep licking until I found it! 
